Gammerelli's window, the clerical tailors near the Pantheon, is dripping with scarlet, according to my Rome spy. The Pope always used to use Euroclero, I think he still does at least as far as cassocks are concerned. I brought my first "Roman" casssock which was hanging up next to one which had a label marked "Card. Ratzinger" from them. "Gammerelli's" are a bit tight under the arms and take forever, though their excuses for delay: "the dog ate the black thread" or "the tailor's great grand mother died in Calabria", are always interesting.On Saturday, 23 new "princes of the Church" will dress in their scarlet choir dress when Pope Benedict XVI brings them into the elite circle of his closest advisers. They join a group which, when the time comes, will elect his successor from within their own ranks.
The basic red cassock with red silk buttons, with a red silk sash and worn with a matching a 'mozetta.' A white lace or linen rochet – lace seems to be making a comeback, completes the outfit. Accessories include a red and gold braided cord to hold the pectoral cross, and a gold ring which the newly named cardinals will receive during a special Mass Sunday.
A cardinal's everyday wardrobe includes a black cassock trimmed in red, worn with a red sash and a red skull cap..
The average cost of a complete cardinals outfit is around €2,500 (US$3,700) but can reach nearly €4,000 (US$5,925) depending on the choice of fabric and workmanship.
Scarlet socks cost about €10 (US$15) a pair, they are the cheapest bit of the ensemble.
Cardinals named by Pope John XXIII, who died in 1963, also wore a princely silk cloak with an extensive train, a wide-brimmed plush hat with braided tassel and shoes decorated with shiny gold buckles.
With the Pope's own collection of headgear I was hoping he might re-introduce the ancient Galero being conferred here by Pius XII.
9 comments:
What a very interesting post.
I don't think I've ever seen a photo in full colour of Pius XII bestowing the red hat.
The ceremony was abolished by Paul VI, wasn't it, as part of his abolition of the papal court.
I suppose it was inevitable that the papal tiara would go the same way.
The galero itself still remains of course on a cardinal's coat of arms.
I understand certain cardinals, who wish to retain the custom of hanging the galero over their tomb, have a galero made privately.
As a youngster, I was told the final distentegration of the galero hanging over a cardinal's tomb is a sort of reminder "sic transit gloria mundi".
However, I think I prefer the (much more interesting) tradition that the galero remains hanging in place until the soul of the deceased cardinal is eventually released from Purgatory !
This might interest you
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYzRL9YIswQ
I agree with Dr. Peter, what an interesting post! I had never thought too much about the cardinal's regalia. What exquisite detail and tailoring etc. must go into each piece. It's not cheap to be a cardinal, clothing-wise or responsibility-wise. Good thing I can't be a Cardinal. I'm remarkably messy (always spilling stuff etc)and would probably wreck the outfit.
God bless,
Out of curiosity, if a cardinal comes from a poor diocese, as there a Vatican slush fund around, or at least a millionaire or two on tap who supplies the new Cardinal with this rig? [Geez, mother nature gives the male of the species the nice trappings. I can only guess what a few here would have said had Mother Teresa sported a lace anything! [FOR THE RECORD, I do like looking at the whole ensemble, it's great eye-candy...and I suppose the cost keeps a poor tailor or two's family fed.
Gem
There are various Roman Princesses around, who seem to regard it as act of charity to look after Cardinalatial haberdashery.
I remember hearing of one particular, friar-cardinal who used rejoiced in naming the previous owner of various items of his dress.
Fellini died in communion with the Church despite years of anti-clerical jibes.
the pontiff, just for your edification, Father, used manchinelli's on the borgo pio while Cardinal Ratzinger for the production of his cassocks....to enable a more "generous" fit...
oremus pro invicem.
But Monsignor,
He also used my old tailor at Euroclero. I use Barbiconi for the more comfortable fit. Gamm's are a bit tight around the upper arms etc.
I did once see him coming out of Manchinelli's carryin a bag which I think had shirts in it. He was, and is a great favourite with the shopkeepers around in the Borgo Pio, he used to chat to them, and their cats, on his walks, they miss him.
I am writing about a fictional cardinal right now and I find all the cardinal's attire so inspiring.
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